I had always dreamed of visiting Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands, particularly Nyanga and Vumba. Known for its year-round cool climate and breathtaking vistas that unfold into wispy mountains, it’s the perfect destination for a romantic getaway—if you’re lucky in love, of course.

Never did I imagine that my first visit to this far-flung yet stunning part of the country would be work-related. Nor did I expect such a journey to be so spontaneous, leaving no time for contemplation or careful packing. But, as I would soon discover, the most delightful journeys are often the least prepared for.

The Eastern Highlands is a mountainous region in the east of Zimbabwe, encompassing Mutare, Nyanga, Vumba, Chimanimani, and Chipinge, all nestled near the border with Mozambique.

The Call of Vumba: The trip was prompted by a writers’ room session for a TV project, involving five creatives from diverse production disciplines—scriptwriting, acting, editing, directing, producing, and cinematography. The plan was to spend three nights in a remote Vumba location, brainstorming ideas for the project.

We packed into a hatchback and hit the R5 highway in the twilight hours of a late winter Thursday. It wasn’t the ideal vehicle for a trip to the remote highlands, as we would later learn. However, the R5, like many highways in Zimbabwe, is partly dualized with a clean and well-marked surface, making it friendly for night driving. Yet, the temptation to over speed on such roads can lead to dangerous overtaking situations.

Thankfully, our drive from Harare to Vumba was smooth and uneventful. We arrived in Mutare just after 9 PM. Knowing we were booked into a self-catering facility, we stocked up on provisions for our stay before leaving Mutare, including some booze for the “boys” (I was the only non-drinker!).

A Cottage in the Woods: After a humorous mishap that saw us driving nearly 20 kilometers in the wrong direction, we finally arrived at our accommodation—Blarney Cottage. Situated near the famous Leopard Rock Hotel, the cottage is nestled deep in a dark valley, surrounded by breathtaking evergreen flora. Accessing the cottage proved challenging in a car with no ground clearance, especially at night. For trips like these, a bakkie or SUV is the ideal choice.

Blarney Cottage is a small, modest family-run guesthouse that exudes the warm vibes of a home away from home. The proprietor is a kind lady who offers effortless hospitality and that extra matronly attention you don’t find everywhere. The staff is equally hospitable and courteous, reflecting the training and coaching invested in them.

With three bedrooms—one being en-suite—a vast living area featuring a stone-clad fireplace, and a high ceiling with exposed rafters and a sunroof, the cottage is perfect for an all-weather family or group vacation. The kitchen has a gas cooker, but there’s also the option of a wood burner if you want to go full retro. Water for showers and baths is heated in an antique boiler, adding a quaint feel to the experience.

Mornings and evenings were spent like old-world English professors, sipping coffee and jotting down notes as we lounged cross-legged on vintage sofas by the fireplace, brainstorming ideas for the project. Late afternoons were spent outside on the verges, alternating between shade and sunshine.

The Enchantment of Vumba: Vumba, originally called Bvumba, is a paradise for birds, thanks to its unique blend of montane and tropical habitats. If you’re a bird enthusiast, or if you just fancy watching the sunset behind a 1,900-meter mountain peak to the melody of colorful sunbirds and waterbirds, Vumba is calling you.

Blarney Cottage and its surroundings boast a wide selection of birdlife, both migratory and non-migratory. On the second day of our stay, one of the staff members, Tongai, took us on a long hike, introducing us to the local fauna, including the birds. A very articulate and passionate young man, Tongai keeps a voluminous hand-written record of all the bird species found in Vumba, their migration calendar, and more.

Apart from birdwatching, there are several outdoor activities to indulge in while in Vumba. You can visit numerous waterfalls, ride horses, fish for trout, or visit local communities to observe their day-to-day activities, such as fruit harvesting. Thanks to its lush climate and rich soil, Vumba is known for producing a variety of fruits, from citruses to apples, bananas, avocados, and berries.

Our host runs a small yet thriving dried-fruit venture on the property. They sun-dry freshly harvested fruit and package it attractively for sale at farmers’ markets and in supermarkets in Harare and Mutare. We were given samples, and my colleagues fell in love with the dried pineapple.

They also have an apiary on-site, producing natural honey under the brand name “Mukoko.” Lavender and rosemary are strategically grown in swathes around the property to attract honeybees.

We left Blarney Cottage and Vumba on a Sunday afternoon, with heavy hearts. The place fills you with the kind of nostalgia and sadness that weighs you down each time you bid farewell to home after a long absence. It’s a place you’ll always want to return to. And just like home, the memories will always stay with you, no matter how far away you go.